aquarium fish

Come and enjoy the life of aquarium fish ! We will learn how to feed aquarium fish and where to buy tropical fish.

Friday, December 29, 2006

Tropical Fish

Tropical Fish Common name(s):
Niger Triggerfish, Red-toothed Trigger tropical fish, Black Trigger.

Scientific name: Odonus niger

Family: Balistidae

Origin: Fiji/Tahiti - Pacific Ocean

Maximum size: 12 inches+ in the wild, 10 inches in captivity.

Care: The Niger Trigger tropical fish is a hardy peaceful marine fish great for beginners that can afford/sustain a large watertank. A 75 gallon tank minimum is recommended and perhaps upgrade as the fish grows. The fish's maximum size is approximately 10 inches in a home aquarium. Specific gravity is best around 1.020 and 1.028. Recommended pH levels can be between pH 8 to 8.5 and hardness of dKH 8-12. They do best in temperatures ranging from 72F-78F (22C-28C). This species is one of the most compatible triggerfish available at tropical fish stores.

Feeding: This triggerfish is not fussy and will accept most foods such as mysis, krill, brine, pellets and flakes. As they mature, larger pieces of clam, krill, squid or prawns will be accepted.

Sexing and Breeding: Not much is known on breeding however they are egg-scatterers and males tend to have longer tail streams.

Comments: The Niger Trigger is one of the most peaceful triggerfish available and provided are well fed and given enough space, will get along with most fish. Invertebrates however are still considered food to them as they are their natural food in the wild. Some reports claim these fish can even be reef safe, however it is to be done with caution.

Note: This trigger, also called the “Red-Toothed Trigger” tropical fish, stands up to its name as when it matures as an adult it grows bright red teeth. It should be well fed on hard things such as krill, shrimp and similar molluscs. This is to wear down their ever-growing teeth that are rare with such tropical fish.

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Tropical Fish

Some of the most colourful and tropical fish to swim the tropical seas may be threatened by the aquarium trade, the United Nations believes.

It says over 20 million tropical fish and about half as many other forms of marine life are caught every year for the trade.

There is also a persistent demand for some forms of coral, the UN believes.

But it says the aquarium trade, if it is properly managed, can help coastal communities to climb out of poverty.

The report, From Ocean To Aquarium: The Global Trade In Marine Ornamentals, is launched by the UN Environment Programme's World Conservation Monitoring Centre (Unep-WCMC), which is based in Cambridge, UK.

Tropical Fish warning

The report is timed to coincide with the launch of the Disney movie Finding Nemo, the story of a clown anemonefish separated from his dad on Australia's Great Barrier Reef, who ends up in a dentist's surgery.

Together with the blue-green damselfish, the clown fish heads the list of the most traded tropical fish.

The report says the annual catch from tropical seas for the marine aquarium trade in Europe and the US totals more than 20 million tropical fish from 1,471 species, ranging from the sapphire devil to the copperhead butterflyfish.

Another 9-10 million creatures from about 500 species, including molluscs, shrimps and anemones, are caught as well, with up to 12 million stony corals taken from the wild each year.

Banggai cardinalfish   Colette Wabnitz

Hope for the poor

The report says the annual value of the trade, which is concentrated in south-east Asia, is $2-300m. In the Maldives, one kilogramme of aquarium fish was valued at almost $500, while the same weight of tropical fish for food was worth only $6.

The live coral trade is worth about $7,000 per tonne, against $60 for a tonne of coral used for making limestone.

The UN says the aquarium trade is worth about $5.6m a year to Sri Lanka, providing 50,000 people in low-income areas with jobs - and, it says, with a strong incentive to conserve the fish and the reefs.

The executive director of the UN Environment Programme, Dr Klaus Toepfer, said: "Collecting tropical fish brings pleasure to millions.

Barbaric and short-sighted

"The global trade in marine species poses a significant risk to valuable ecosystems like coral reefs, but it has great potential as a source of desperately-needed income for local fishing communities."

Although the trade is mainly legitimate, the report details some methods which are certainly not sustainable.

One of the authors, Colette Wabnitz, said: "A minority of fishermen, in countries such as Indonesia, use sodium cyanide to capture tropical fish. An almost lethal dose of the poison is squirted into the reef where the tropical fish shelter.

"It stuns them to allow capture and export, but can also kill coral and other species. The tropical fish may survive the export process but usually die of liver failure soon after being purchased."

Giant clam   Cedric Genevois

Gold standard

The report relies heavily on data from the Global Marine Aquarium Database, compiled by Unep-WCMC, the Marine Aquarium Council (MAC), and members of different trade associations.

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Saturday, May 27, 2006

Aquarium Fish

Common names/s: Red-finned Shark, Rainbow Shark, Ruby Shark aquarium fish.

Scientific name: Epalzeorhynchus frenatus.

Family: Cyprinidae.

Origin: S.E. Asia (Thailand)

Maximum size: 6" (15cm)

Care: Planted tank with plenty of rocks, wood and caves. At least 36" in length. Keep the water clean, well filtrated and airated.

Feeding: Omnivorous, some vegetable matter is required in their diet as well as more meatier foods like bloodworms. They will except most foods ranging from commercailly prepared flakes to live foods. Sometimes they will also graze on algae.

Sexing and Breeding: Males can sometimes be distinguished by a slimmer body and black lines/markings on the anal fin. Breeding has occasionally happened in the aquaria but it is rare and hard due to their aggression towards their own species.

Coments: This is a relatively small and attractive aquarium fish. However, although less of a nuisance than E.bicolor they can still show aggression towards aquarium fish of a similar shape and size so they do not make good community aquarium fish in all cases. Do not keep more than one of this genus to a tank. Captive breeding has now produced an albino form but it is still equally aggressive.

Friday, May 19, 2006

Tropical Fish - Breeding Guppies

When you start talking with beginner tropical fish hobbyist about breeding guppies the first thing you hear is, “That’s not hard to do. Just get a small tank and add water, and insert guppies. Wait a few days and you have them breed.” Well for the most part this is a simplified version of what I intend to talk about in this article. But, there is more.

A five-gallon tank will work for a trio of one male and two females, but if you want more, than I would say use a ten-gallon tank so that you can have two males and up to ten females. The latter of the two is what people that raise show quality guppies do to increase their chances of seeing all the traits in just a single tropical fish that they are looking for. Make sure the water is cycled to avoid any ammonia or nitrite spikes. One tablespoon of aquarium salt should be added for each ten-gallons of water. Guppies do much better in water that has a little salt added to it. Floating fake plants are used quite often, but another thing I like to use is a weighted spawning mop made from a dark green or dark blue colored yarn. These mops give great refuge for the fry, so that the other adult fish do not eat them before you have a chance to move the adults to another tank. And yes, I said move the adults. It’s much easier to catch up to twelve adult fish that are at least an inch long or larger, than it is to catch up to one hundred very tiny guppy fry.

As far as what to feed the guppies to condition them for breeding, I suggest black worms, half a cube of frozen bloodworms, half a cube of frozen brine shrimp, and/or a few good quality flake foods such as foods made for guppies, or plankton/krill/spirulina flakes, and some occasional liver flakes, etc. The best advice I can give about feeding your fish is to vary the diet, and do not feed them the same thing each and every day. Your tropical fish will thank you for doing this by growing faster, looking better, and being healthier in the long run.

There is much more to breeding guppies, some of which not everyone will decide to follow. A lot of people see a nice Cobra Delta-tailed Guppy at the store and decide that’s the fish they wish to breed, so in that process that same person either buys a female or two at the same store or they visit a different store to purchase the female or males, which ever the case may be. Meanwhile, there are other tropical fish hobbyist that do some researching and locate a specific color and/or fin strain that they wish to breed. These strains may cost up to, if not more than $85 for a trio (one male and two females). But, keep in mind that the breeder that has these fish for sale has been working on this strain for quite some time using a process of “line-breeding” to keep the strain as nice looking and pure as possible. These are the potential breeders of a show quality guppy. Don’t get me wrong, some breeders have taken the average guppy from a local shop and through line breeding have developed some very beautiful show guppies. Neither of the two ways that you get your guppies will produce a show quality guppy rightaway; this generally takes a bit of time, sometimes over 5 years. It all depends on what you are looking for in the guppies, and how devoted to the objective you are.

Currently I am working with some store bought guppies, one of my males has a green colored body with a snake skin pattern that starts right behind the gill plates and carries on back to the beginning of the tail, hence its name “green snake skin”. The fins of this fish are what’s called a “delta-tail.” This is a tail fin that is about three times as tall from top to bottom as the fish’s body is from bottom of belly to the top of its back. And the dorsal fin is long and floats through the water like the tail of a common Crowntail Betta. Both the tail fin and the dorsal fin have matching yellow/green/black dotted patterns. This male is being bred to similar looking females. And since these tropical fish are not related genetically (at least not to my knowledge) this is known as selective breeding. Selective breeding is when you buy your fish and you look for the traits you wish to have in the offspring in the breeding stock you are planning to purchase. Line breeding is when you take the offspring from this group of breeders and mate them back to the original breeding group. For example, you would take the female offspring and mate them back to the male of the original group (father to daughter), or you take a pair of males and breed them back to the original female that they came from (very accurate record keeping is needed for this method of breeding sons back to mother). But, many of the top guppy breeders in the world will tell you, it is much better to breed the daughters back to the father than it is to breed the mother back to the sons.

By breeding the daughters back to the father you have a much higher chance of seeing the desired traits. From this point on you will be doing some very heavy culling of the unwanted offspring to keep just the traits you are looking for. When I say culling the offspring I am talking about pulling the slower growing or less colorful males and females from the group and keeping only the best looking fish. You also pull out any deformed fish as well since these would not make for good breeding stock in the future. There are a few different ways to get rid of the culled fish, but please, never just flush them down a toilet. The fish do not die right away and end up suffering from breathing in toxins that no one should have to breathe in, or swim in for that matter. Instead either feed them to a larger fish (not everyone likes this method either), or place them in a small bag with water and place them in the freezer. By freezing them they just slowly start to hibernate like they would during a winter season and finally just stop living altogether. This is said to be the most humane way to do this. And of course there are people that do not agree that the previously mentioned method is actually humane either. So, you are left picking and choosing your battle so to speak.

Once you are happy with some of the guppies you have been able to produce throughout all this time, you can now consider locating an International Fancy Guppy Association sanctioned fish show and enter your tropical fish in the show. At this point I would suggest competition in the Novice category since it can be really disappointing to be in competition against some of the breeders that have been entering shows for many years and then not place well, or you may hear some remarks about how your fish should not be in that category. I have been to a few of the shows and heard a lot of bad talking about other hobbyist fish, and sometimes its not pretty language either. Or you could even start by showing your fish in your local club’s “Bowl Show” (just a gentle hint to the members of the club I am a member of). It’s always a good feeling to enter your fish and take the chance of winning some form of an award, such as but not limited to, a first, second, or third place ribbon. The prize is not as important as how the hobbyist feels when he/she sees their tropical fish on display with one of those ribbons near it.

And there is always a chance that you will be able to produce a new color variant or strain and it will be seen at a local or larger tropical fish show. You too will be able to sell some of your quality offspring to other hobbyists that have chosen to follow in the same direction as you have.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Aquarium Fish

Common Name/s: Asian Stone Catfish, Anchor aquarium fish, Asian Moth Catfish

Scientific Name: Hara jerdoni

Family: Sisoridae

Origin: Asia

Natural Environment: Slow moving streams with sandy bottoms.

Size: under 1/2in or 3.8cm

pH: 6-8

Temperature: 68-75 F or 18-24 C

Diet: Bloodworms (prefers live, but will take frozen), sinking aquarium fish pellets, algae wafers.

Tempermant: Extremely reclusive and shy... hides during the day and comes out at night to search for food.

Tank Requirements: Although it is very small, the Hara jerdoni requires extremely stable water parameters. IMO, a 10g is a good minimum size for these catfish. They are also very social animals, so they prefer to be in groups. Sand is best for substrate, but other small grained subsrates will work just as well. Driftwood is a big plus for these catfish because they love clinging on to the underside during the day.

- Aquarium Fish

Friday, April 07, 2006

Tropical Fish - Repairing a Tank

Tropical Fish : Repairing a Tank Seem - Instructions.

empty and clean the tank thoroughly. if the tank was in use, place the gravel with tank water covering it in a bucket. do not clean the gravel, you will remove the beneficial bacteria that is living in the gravel. you can use this to restart the tank. make sure that the tank water covers the gravel by about an inch. also if you can reserve as much of the water as possible.

determine at what joint your leak is at and with the razor scraper and knife remove as much of the silicone as you can. try not to get too deep between the two panes of glass. you will need to have ventilation at this point of the repair. with the white vinegar and a sponge, clean the area trying not to get the vinegar on the silicone on the other joints. the vinegar is an acid and will remove the residue left by the old sealer. wipe up any extra vinegar and again rinse the tank in hot water several times to ensure that the vinegar is thoroughly removed. let the tank completely dry for about 1-2 hours.

you will need to make a spreader with the margarine tub lid. clean the lid in hot water to remove any food particles. let dry. with your scissors cut the edge of the lid off. cut the lid in half and in half again. at the pointy end, place the penny to give a curve about a 1/3" from the end. mark the curve and cut.

if you are using silicone make sure that it is 100% silicone and clear. additives can leach harmful elements into your tank causing fish loss. with either the aquarium sealer or the silicone in a caulk gun, run a bead of silicone from one end of the repair to the other. take the spreader that you made and with the sides against the glass of the tank, run this along the bead of caulk. you will want to press the spreader into the silicone to remove any air bubbles and get a good seal. the spreader will also remove the excess caulk. you can also use your finger, but this is messier. wet your finger and pressing firmly run along the bead of caulk. wipe away any excess caulk with the paper towels.

you will need to let the caulk or sealer cure for 72 hours. after this time, rinse the tank thoroughly and check for leaks. if there are no leaks you can refill the tank with the reserved water and gravel. if you do detect leaks you might have an air bubble which has left a hole in the repair. if so, you will need to repeat the process again.

as i said i have used this method to repair many tanks, including replacing a broken piece of glass in two of them.

- Tropical Fish.

Friday, March 24, 2006

aquarium fish

I have noticed frequent questions being asked by newbies about choosing stock for the tank.Here are some points about choosing stock.

1.Visit a reputable and knowledgeable dealer, avoid dealers that want to make a quick buck or two and just sell you anything. The advice here is to do a little homework about a subject and then "test" out your dealer. If they give you a satisfactory answer then you can probably have confidence that they will know something about their trade.

2.Never buy fish from a tank that has dead fish floating around in it. This should tell you two things. The first is the dealer does not check his tanks often and second, there may be some sort of infection in the tank that has spread to the other fish in the tank, and you would be throwing your money down the drain.

3.Check that the tank and the water is crystal clear and the occupants are swimming around happily without stress. Check too that the tanks are maintained-by asking if necessary.

4.Check that the fish in the tank are healthy- Most fish will swim with their dorsal fins erect and their "tail" fins outspread. Check too that there are no injuries to the fish, such as missing scales or spots or abrasions. Avoid any fish with clamped fins.

5.Choose a fish that "looks" healthy and robust as opposed to emaciated and hollow bellied or protruding scales.

6.In livebearers, such as guppy, swordtail,platy and others look for a strong and healthy caudal peduncle(where the tail joins the body) There should be no marks of injury to that area and no erosion of the tail fin.

7. Ask the dealer the PH and DH of the water in his tanks, a good dealer should tell you instantly.

8.Once your chosen fish is bagged and even in a shoal you can still ask the dealer for the fish you want. Try to avoid the temptation because of embarrassment to say to the dealer, "Oh I dunno, you choose". The dealer is there to serve you and as a customer you are the most important person. Remember without you he will be out of business!Examine the bagged fish, you can still change your mind if you think the fish is suspect. If you are happy then tell the dealer so and make your purchase.

9.When you get your new pet home the temptation is to put them straight into you tank. WRONG!If possible you should quarantine you fish for at least a week before introducing them into your main tank. This act serves several purposes, it will show up any diseases, any injuries and other maladies the fish may have.

10. When you are happy with everything and introduced your fish into the main tank- Sit back, relax and enjoy.

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Aquarium Fish

Aquarium Fish

Aquarium fish are pets like other pets and you have to know what you're doing and I will try to help you with it.
First of all you have to buy a tank. Look for a tank that is big enough to store the fish you want
(keep note that some fish need bigger tanks as they need more place so do your homework !)
I'd suggest to go for a bigger tank cause having some extra room for your tropical fish is a good idea.

When you're in the store make shure to take some extra equipment with you cause you'll need it.
I suggest getting:

1. Heater
The heater is the most important part of a tropical tank. For most tropical fish, 25Cis a good average.
4 watts per gallon is ok, buteach heater will state the size aquaria it accommodate for.
For the larger aquaria, it is often best to have two smaller heaters for a couple of reasons, one because should one break,
u still have one to keep your tank going until u can replace it, and two should you have 1 big heater, and the thermostat got stuck on, it would raise the temp of the tank far more and in less time than a smaller one would.
All heaters now have a built in thermostat which turns the heater on and off when needed to keep the tank at a stable temperature, the heater should never be un-plugged.

2. Filter.
Best to check if the filter fits your tank. this is very important !.The size of the filter depends upon 3 factors :
- tank size
- # aquarium fish
- plants
There are lots of different types of filters : internal filter,external filter,gravel filter and box filters (I advise to skip this one cause they are for small tanks).

3. Gravel
The gravel is mainly for aesthetic purposes, but it also is vital if you are keeping live plants as they need a substrate of some sort to anchor them selves down with.
If you have a planted tank, then 2-3inches of gravel is advised, but if u have an unplanted tank, then u may use ½ - 2inches of gravel.
The gravel also holds some of the bacteria in the tank, and if the tank has an under gravel filter, then the gravel will contain nearly all of the bacteria in the tank.

Its best to start with the gravel and other decorative ornaments, place it in a bucket , stir the gravel ensuring that no dust is left. Once this has been done its probably a good idea to pour boiling water over the gravel and shake it in the container before straining it off, the boiling water will kill any bacteria or other nasty organisms and prevent them getting in your tank!

Use a clean cloth and a bucket of clean water and clean thoroughly the inside of the tank, look for any leaks or cracks (hopefully there will be none!) Then empty or sponge out the water you have left in there. Your aquarium should now have no nasty residues or dust in it! Position the tank in the place you want it remembering that once filled a tank can not easily be moved use a level to ensure the surface you place it is on is flat, if not then the glass will put under stress and may crack, also remembering how heavy the tank will be make sure the place you put it on is strong enough to hold it, and if on an upper floor that the floor is strong enough for it.

1) Add the gravel, place it evenly in the tank, do not waste too much time on a design as when you add the water it will get disturbed again.

2) Fill the aquarium half way with dechlorinated water, once half full you will be able to sculpt the gravel the way you want it to look. If you wish to have plants then they'll need at least 5cm of gravel in order to establish a root system. Also add plants and any decorations you wish to add now as they will be easier to plant and position now.

3) Install the equipment place the filter in and secure it using the suction caps which have been moistened with water from the tank. Keep them turned off till the tank is full of water, once securely in position proceed with step 4.

4) Finish adding the water use your hand or the side of the tank to prevent the water splashing heavily into the tank and potentially upsetting your gravel and plants, use your hand above the water to soften the impact when the water actually hits the water surface of the tank.

5) Turn the system on Make sure all the equipment is working, the heater will take a couple of hours to get your tank to the desired temperature. The filter should kick in immediately producing both bubbles and water movement.

Thats it you now have an aquarium set up and ready to go! Well not quite!! Leave the filter and heater running for two or three days before you purchase your first fish for cycling the tank, alternatively you could go for a fishless cycle in which case you will have to delay adding the fish for several weeks while adding pure ammonia every day in order to build up a decent colony of bacteria in the filter. When adding the fish float the fish bag in your aquarium to allow the water inside the bag to adjust to the temperature of the tank, so when you introduce the fish there is not a big temperature shock, for 15 minutes gradually introduce a bit of tank water at this time and after 5 minutes release them into the tank. Please note that for first fish you should only have a few tropical fish, for a 20 gallon tank 6 platies is ample for cycling the tank, adding more will just lead to fish dying because the ammonia produced by their waste is toxic.

Aquarium Fish

Aquarium Fish

aquarium fish - Welcome to my new blog.

First of all I would like to welcome all new visitors to my blog about aquarium fish. In the next few weeks I will talk about how to breed, feed and nurse tropical fish.
And don't forget to clean all your aquarium's so all tropical fish are happy !

Yeah and Rob owns a few blogs on
tropical fish ,aquarium fish ,saltwater fish and freshwater fish !

aquarium fish